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India Couture Week 2024
The final week of July was a star-studded affair in Delhi, with some of the country's most prominent names descending upon the national capital to showcase their latest lines. This year's bustling-as-always Hyundai India Couture Week, in association with Reliance Brands Limited, an FDCI initiative, oscillated between yawns and awes, with some designers playing it safe and others pushing their house identity within imaginable reach. Amid all the hits and misses, here’s a look at the major fashion highlights that dominated the runway in the week that was.
Vintage Cues
Historical grandeur as a theme can feel repetitive, yet a layered lehenga paired with a cape or veil—staple silhouettes seen across several shows—invokes nostalgia strong enough to mostly bypass critique. Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla's 'Asal and Mard', a revelry-dunked celebration of Indian silhouettes displayed against 'Disco Mujra', fits this bill. Particularly noteworthy were the ensembles for men, which flaunted varied color palettes across classic yet contemporary silhouettes, with the choreographed chemistry significantly elevating the production value.
Day 4 of ICW saw JJ Valaya present 'Muraqqa', inspired by Istanbul, Isfahan, and Delhi, with a heavy hand of Art Deco patterning. Jayanti Reddy followed on Day 6 with her Nawabi ode to the Nizami aesthetic. Though familiar, her modern couture-coded silhouettes elevated the final visual payoff.
Falguni Shane Peacock's 'Rang Mahal' was the grand finale for this year's ICW. History met pop palettes as the designer duo layered bling and crystals on Banarasis and Kanjeevarams in their first tryst with Indian weaves.
Installation Fashion
Installation fashion made quite the resurgence, moving away from the expected runway ensembles. Suneet Varma's 'Nazm', showcased on Day 2, featured hand-embroidered applique work on soft metallic tissue, organza, and chiffon, with unique blouse silhouettes stealing the show. On Day 5, Amit Aggarwal's 'Antevorta', a futuristic reinterpretation of traditional Indian silhouettes inspired by "space, time, matter, energy, and information," showcased stiff swirls, ornamental face-pieces, and subtle metallic bling.
European Grandeur
European inspiration reigned at Couture Week, with multiple designers weaving their collections around it. Isha Jajodia's 'Roseroom' lineup on Day 2 drew inspiration from opulent French architecture, featuring soft palettes, trailing silhouettes, and accessories like bows, pearls, and masks. The next day, Siddartha Tytler presented 'Caligula's Feast', inspired by the controversial Roman emperor, with dark tones, lavish embroidery, and sultry showstoppers.
On the penultimate day, Rimzim Dadu focused on Baroque architecture and music, bypassing the romanticized Renaissance era. Her metallic cord-encased lineup featured embroidered cages and statement shoulders on fuss-free silhouettes.
Floral Femininity
Florals, though often overdone, were refreshed by brand USPs. Isha Jajodia’s Roseroom featured French-inspired, lace-infused bodice gowns. Dolly J experimented with whimsical hems and a heavy dose of tulle and crystal, creating a Victorian feel. Rahul Mishra’s 'Nargis', presented on Day 5, drew inspiration from Mughal Gardens. Despite a hiccup on ICW's penultimate day, which saw Tarun Tahiliani call for a complete redo of his show, his pieces felt like a soft embrace, championing Indian craftsmanship through kashidakar, mukaish, and chikankari work.